You win sumo, you lose sumo: inside London’s most exciting night out

Not just dinner and a show, Tokyo Nights is a fast and fearless sumo tournament accompanied by the kind of specific knowledge tutorial that makes you leave feeling like an expert. Not to mention, you may nearly end up with a rikishi in your lap.

Seeing sumo wrestling in London with my teenager was iconic

That’s exactly what happened at Tokyo Nights in Greenwich, where my teenage son and I spent an evening eating sushi, banging our fists in appreciation of our chosen rikishi, Genbu, and learning far more about Japan’s national sport of sumo wrestling than either of us had imagined happening in our hometown of London.

Set inside the grand surroundings of Greenwich Borough Hall, the anticipation was high, the venue looked amazing, and our side-of-stage vantage point was goals. Before the wrestlers even enter the ring, there are dramatic video introductions, pounding music and a ring master who could probably whip excitement out of the House of Lords on hump day. It’s theatrical, funny and completely commits to the spectacle whilst retaining all its cool points.

The clever bit is how quickly the infectious vibe spreads throughout the crowd. Every guest is allocated a rikishi to support, with hype crews encouraging each section of the audience to out-cheer the others. Within minutes you’re rooting for your wrestler to win as though you’ve followed their career for years, and their regal bearing just begs respect, because these are properly gracious sportsmen.

The wrestling itself is over in seconds sometimes, but that’s where the format really comes into its own. Between every bout, two commentators analyse exactly what happened, explaining the techniques, tactics and psychology behind each match in an accessible, entertaining way. Alongside the wonderfully theatrical referee, who introduces the rituals and traditions surrounding sumo, you gradually realise you’re getting a crash course in one of Japan’s oldest sporting traditions without it ever feeling like a history lesson.

Right in the action, and well fed too

It’s a bit like watching Dodgeball meets live sport meets Japanese culture, and somehow it all works.

The VIP dining package we experienced weaves the food neatly around the action. Starters are served before the opening contests, followed by an individual sushi boat during the interval and a chocolate dessert later in the evening, meaning you never feel like you’re missing the show. There’s table service in the VIP section, and plenty of high end sake and Japanese whisky to enjoy, as well as a whisky bar next to the merch table. Talking of merch, my son loved his Genbu headband, which was decently priced at £9.

Then came the moment neither my son nor I will forget.

One particularly explosive bout ended with a rikishi being launched clean out of the ring in our direction. For a split second it looked as though he was about to join us for dinner. Thankfully he stopped just short of our table, but we’d already started wondering whether we’d survive the impact. It was one of those brilliantly unpredictable moments that simply couldn’t happen watching sport on TV, but sumo wrestling London style gave all the goods.

The evening finishes with a meet-and-greet and photo opportunity with the rikishi, which is a lovely way to end the experience and gives you the chance to appreciate just how enormous these athletes really are.

The VIP experience isn’t inexpensive, but there are also standard show tickets available if you simply want to enjoy the entertainment without dining. Either way, it feels less like buying a ticket for a performance and more like stepping into an event.

How to get fans for life: it’s sumo magic

What surprised me most wasn’t the wrestling itself, because we knew that would be awesome. It was how invested I became. By the end of the night I knew why salt is thrown into the ring, understood the significance of the pre-bout rituals and specific audience chants, and how the guy who may look like the winner can be overcome by an opponent who stands steady and uses the element of speedy surprise.

The London run may have finished for now, but if Tokyo Nights announces another series of dates, I’d say go for it, book and don’t miss the boat, like several of my friends sending crying emojis after my Instagram story. It’s immersive, funny, unexpectedly educational and one of the most original evenings out we’ve had together in a long time: basically one for the core memory banks, never to be forgotten.

Whether you’re a sports fan, a Japan enthusiast or simply looking for something completely different to do in London, this is an experience that stays with you long after the final bout. It’s adults-only, so the kids will have to wait a while, but it’s worth it. Plus, it gave us a fantastic reason to stroll Canary Wharf and Greenwich on a beautiful London June evening, which is the kind of plus worth sumo wrestling for.

Check the Tokyo Nights website for further announcements